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Tags: Adjust, Bicycle, cable., cables, Derailleur, lubricate, service, Tools
This entry was posted on Saturday, January 26th, 2013 at 2:46 am and is filed under I Love My Bike.
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okay. thanks. iv just cleaned out all the derailleur (pivots) and then relubed everything round their. and its working fine now. thanks for the advise
A couple things will cause this. If you have a kink in the cable inside the housingit doesn’t matter how smooth it is, the kink will cause enough friction to screw up shifting. But if you’ve been in the mud I would be you have some crud packed up inside the spring/pivot points of the actual derraileur. Clean it out best you can and re-lube the pivot points. Could also be a bent derr. hanger, but if you’ve been in the mud I would be the derr. pivots and springs are bound up a little.
hi. iv been on a few ride arounds in deep mud and that and my derailer wont do its job. i can go from 7 – 1 fine but then when i changed it from 1 to 7 it wont shift down. i have lubed all of the cables fine and make sure their ok but my derailer wont go down gear so i get stuck in gear 1 all time. if i jump of a curb or go over something big it will then shift down. what should i try doing?
Thanks for an easy fix to an annoying problem
Generally, in the case of cables, less is more in the lube department. Too much of any kind of lube will attract dirt or create it’s own friction. I like a liquid lube for cables and just a tiny bit of it. I wouldn’t put grease on any friction sensitive parts like cables inside housings, because the grease will actually keep the cable from sliding smoothly. If your shifter cables get hung up even a little bit it can wreak havoc in your shifting system.
is it better to use lithium grease to lube the cables ?
The simple tips are always the best… very helpful…. thank you!
Yeah, thanks alot for the technique, great time saver!
On that bike it’s a Shimano XT rapid rise rear derailleur and XT shifters (ST M765 series)
What shifters and derailers do you have
Any good bike oil should work. Tri-Flow is a good all-purpose oil.
can i use some oil which is used mostly in the chain? or is an especific fluid?
Cable replacement really only comes into play depending on riding conditions. If you ride in rain, or by the sea a lot you probably need to change cables more often. I don’t really change cables on my road bikes very often (if ever), but my mountain bikes get cable and cable housing changes when shifting starts to suffer.
Hi. My bike is 5 years old now and only just changing cassette/chainrings (Ultegra seems to last) as well as a snapped rear derailleur (on a busy roundabout too!). Would you suggest replacing the gear cables at the same time? Or do they just last. Cheers
Thank you so much. Very informative.
nice tip !! thank you from indonesia
Great tip! I thought my derailleur or shifter was broken ( kept sticking in between 2&3)
Tried your tip and BAM! Problem solved.
Thanks from San Diego!
Great trick thanks. Saved me some time
I just went and checked and my grips are actually OURY brand. I love them. They are NOT slimline, pretty fat actually, gives a bit more coushion to the hands. OURY grips actually use the ODI Lock Jaw Clamps. Check out their website, just type in OURY grips into google and it will come right up, then select Lock On grips.
hmm. great. maybe i’ll try ODI. i’ve been using lock ons all the way, it’s also very humid here in singapore. RH is about 70-90% but the grips u’re using are not slim right? i’m using tioga slim grips and they are….well, too slim. hahah. but i feel their bar ends are the best.
ODI’s lock-on I believe. I will NEVER go back to regular grips! The lock-on style of grips does not allow the grips to slip around the bars. I live in the Pacific Northwest (lots of moisture) so grip slipping is always a problem…until the lock-on style grips came out. The grips are on a sleeve that clamps to the bars at each end of the grip. Expensive, but totally worth the money.
on a random note, what grips are u using?
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